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of the hill. It is at ch0^^^^^^ leave
for Tunganath. such of jo this
extra climb. The beauty of Tunganath is that all the
snows can be seen from there, even better than from
Chobda. Nor is the Journey, it is said, so hard as
one would suppose. The Maharajah of Gwalior has
made it easy, by cutting paths and mending roads.
The Tunganath pilgrims return to the main road again
at a dismal place called Bhingoda Chatty where one
actually sees the staircase in the mountain by which
they have descended.

We were doing double marches in these days,
owing to the illness of one of our party, that we
might reach a place called LaII Sanghao or Chamoli,
where we should be on the Thibetan Road, and enjoy
the resources of a dak bungalow. Thus even on
reaching Mandal Chatty, we were still some eight
miles away from our destination.

It was at the end of the pass, when still about a
mile and a half from Chamoli that we came to
Gopeswara, a place which is almost a town in size,
and forms a pilgrimage on its own account. There
is a large temple here to the Mother, but Gopeswara
is really Siva, as the Lord of the Cows. The story
told of its foundation is the familiar one of the cow
that was followed to the jungle and found to be
pouring her milk over a natural Siva in the rock.
Taking this as the altar, says the story, the temple
was built over it. In plain fact, we have here a
court like that of Bhethu Chatty, on which open the

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